Crowned the royal hare world champion, chef Julien Lucas continues to give our taste buds the regal treatment. Admittedly, he was born with a culinary spoon in his mouth, and he certainly knows how to recognise the good produce that he ennobles at his table. The freshness of the pea dish was outstanding, with its vegetal notes combined with the brininess of the seaweed and the tanginess of the grapefruit. As for the red mullet, its roundness and strength were mellowed by the fennel, while the hints of red chilli gave it a real kick. The sweetbreads, well braised and crispy, formed a coherent whole thanks to the combination of anchovy and coffee. As for the cheese matured by Bernard Antony, it is quite a bold move to offer just one on a trolley, but when it's good, it's good. Half a point more and the third chef's hat is deserved.