Despite the departure of Chef René Mathieu to Fields, nothing, or almost nothing, seems to have changed. The château still stands on the edge of the forest, which serves as the druid's pantry for his two restaurants. The summer terrace with a view of the ramparts remains a big draw, while the medieval atmosphere of the dining room heralds the mainly plant-based cuisine of this Lord of the Herbs. The Plénitude des jardins is a delightfully fresh dish, the flavour peas intensified by the fermentation of their pods. The combination with tender grilled octopus worked beautifully. Next came a mouth-watering duck breast, beautifully pink and glazed with soy sauce, served with grilled courgettes garnished with crunchy vegetables, fresh herbs and honey-roasted apricots, reminding us that the plant kingdom is always a precious ally.