Pauline Szele's dynamic front-of-house style will be appreciated by those in a hurry, while Nicolas Szele's cuisine is executed by chef Jonathan Martinez in the French tradition but with a local accent. The sliced Angus beef was succulently delicious, enhanced by a well-concentrated jus and a few crispy matchstick potatoes, while the tarte tatin, although revisited, did not betray the beauty of the classic version, adding just a dash more zest and indulgence.