This institution on Place Dargent, created by Dominique Colaianni over 30 years ago, retains its appeal thanks to its attentive service, its menu of affordable wines and, above all, its gourmet cuisine. The veal sweetbreads in a vol-au-vent pastry case, topped with a perfectly smooth morel cream, are a delightfully delicate dish, while the rack of lamb in a herb crust, accompanied by parmigiana, cherry tomatoes and a delicate thyme jus, brought sunshine to the plate.