Fani is Italy in all its glory, his cuisine quintessentially trans-alpine and poetic, as captured in this diaphanous rice tuile which lets the flower petals and flavourful herbs show through. Emotion seems to be the main ingredient, and is certainly the case for the incredible "Non é la solita Zuppa" which, on a base of tomato water, reveals the aromas through vegetable extracts, shoots and flowers, worthy of the most beautiful contemporary paintings. The tortelli with anchovies, fennel and burrata with its fine filling and the slightly spicy fennel flowers make it an unforgettable dish. The traditional roast pigeon served on bread and with black truffles, followed by delicate desserts to round off a gourmet meal, won us all over. In the dining room, Simona Fani manages a team that has been joined by the inimitable sommelier Giovanni Curcio; he will take you around the boot of Italy with brio and unquestionably deserves the title of "Sommelier of the Year 2022".