In this oasis for Italophiles, Roberto Fani lets his soul wander, plunging into his memories of the village where he grew up, and it is his heart that speaks through his dishes. With their clear, legible and sublime presentation, they embody the quintessence of the finest transalpine produce. The raw langoustines seem to swim in spirulina, adding texture and depth to a shellfish sauce further intensified by plankton. The sea-land triglia takes risk-taking up a notch, as the name suggests a clash of flavours. But the magic works between the salty red mullet and the emulsified milk, which energises the whole dish with just the right amount of harmony. The courgette flower with egg yolk is delicious. A fascinating dessert of cauliflower and cocoa provides a slightly salty-sweet kick at the end of the meal. In the dining room, the attentiveness and professionalism of Simonna and Azzura and the good-natured humour of sommelier Giovanni Curcio demonstrate that the word service is not used in vain here.