A vestige of a bygone age, the Hotel Bel-Air has nevertheless kept up with the times. Chef Markus Backers proposes a tantalising "golden-egg" with mushrooms and salted lemon, or a stone bass loin with potato flakes, a citrus sauce and a side dish of barley with wild garlic and radish. On the sweet side, Sandro Maag's fermented milk sorbet with sorrel and raspberries, and his version of Bamkuch with bracing rhubarb and yuzu, do it for us every time.