Château Clervaux

1420

With his fine tartelette of celery cooked in a salt and yuzu crust, chef Christian Ewen gives the humble vegetable the same billing as the rest. A mention for the crispy shiso leaf with capers, cheese and jalapenos which preceded a very elegant carpaccio of sampi with radish, cucumber and fennel, spiced up with a mango chutney. The evolution also shone through in the braised asparagus served with a runny egg, giving the dish a creamy texture. A command in the kitchen that still smacks of potential.