Every year, chef Renaud Nols’ cuisine reaches new heights with a concise menu focusing on seasonal produce. During our visits, there was a hint of Thailand on every plate, from the pike ravioli and crayfish with herbs and a red curry broth to the octopus tentacles in a coconut-flavoured tom kha milk. With a fabulous dessert of sage honey and apricots from Provence to crown it all, this boldly imaginative restaurant has the power to transport you elsewhere.