When you stop off at the old station, you know you’re on the right track in the hands of the larger-than-life Daniel Rameau who, despite his fine old age, is still resisting the call of retirement. He has been treating us to his great classics for nearly forty years, so here you know there will be no nasty surprises. The carefully selected, premium produce is a real treat for his die-hard fans, as is the case with this fricassee of European lobster with morel mushrooms in a yummy yet light and creamy sauce, or the pigeon from the Vosges in a casserole dish reminiscent of the chef's origins.