Gruber, father and son, have mastered the art of French cuisine. However, they are not afraid to push back the boundaries to add a sprinkling of modernity and indulgence to their dishes, notably with flavourful sauces such as morel cream sauce over unctuous sweetbreads or yakitori sauce glazing 36-hour slow-cooked bacon. It's also impossible to resist the pommes dauphines and their addictive "come back for more" taste. Everything is served in generous portions in a charming setting.