Like a modern-day druid, no forest plant or vegetable holds any secrets for René Mathieu, the gastro-botanist chef whose on-going endeavours to move towards an exceptional plant-based cuisine has definitively convinced him to take the plunge into an exclusively plant-based menu, from root to leaf, from stem to flower. As soon as you sit down, it is poetry that we lap up in our plates. The scenography of the service immerses us in a world of sweetness and voluptuousness, but also of consistency, of honest and surprising tastes. The menu would be too long to describe, but to make your mouth water, let us just tantalise you with the silky jus, the creamy fermented sauces, the fine local asparagus far removed from standardised circuits and a carrot matured in the sand that can be feasted on like roasted meat... The finesse of the floral aromas, even in the flavoured waters of his faithful sous-chef, are all moments that make the experience unforgettable, the 'asparagus, rhubarb and woodruff' being a case in point, quite simply exceptional and to be appreciated like a good wine. Now this is a great chef who still has a whole bouquet of delicacies waiting for us.