The head apothecary, Mathieu Van Wetteren, teams up with his pleasant companion, to ensure that both the service and plating up are impeccable. The almost monochrome loft atmosphere encourages you to concentrate on the plate. First there are a few promising appetisers, such as the crunchy grey prawn croustade, with its brandade espuma coating the palate with great finesse, or the crackling cabbage with Ossau Iraty delicately tweaked with a hint of honey. The sauces are also delicious, such as the extremely delicate beurre blanc with wild garlic, which is a delightful combination with broad beans and the first peas of the year, while another with kimchi delicately coats a teriyaki-glazed redfish bream, the hint of wasabi giving the whole a rare balance. A tonic prescription to be lingered over and savoured.