This is a restaurant boasting an exemplary stability, where you can meet up with friends and enjoy a range of roguishly good dishes, such as beautifully moist dumplings in a tomato sauce or a lobster au gratin, served in all simplicity. Chef Jean-Charles l’Hôpital is equally adept at a roast veal chop with chanterelle mushrooms, or grilled turbot with olives and a green tomato jus. These dishes are nicely washed down with some fine bottles recommended by his aptly named counterpart in the dining room, Philippe l'Hôpital, who also knows a thing or two about hospitality.