The only thing that changes here is the menu, which evolves with the seasons. The quality of the dishes is in the capable hands of chef Jean-Charles l'Hôpital. The beautiful asparagus heads, served perfectly al-dente and coated with a veil of Gruyère cheese and an egg yolk, are a foodie delight. When the finesse of the lamb topped with a well-rounded sauce meets the punchiness of the olives, the result is a very well-balanced dish. The wine advice proffered by Philippe l'Hôpital also hits the right note.