Reassuringly familiar, the only thing that changes here is the menu, which evolves with the seasons. The quality nevertheless remains consistent, thanks to chef Jean-Charles L’Hôpital. Just take the tender terrine of chicken and foie gras followed by perfectly grilled turbot, invigorated by a delicious tapenade and green tomato juice. The patiently braised beef cheek is balanced with fennel and figs with some distinctively sweet notes. The welcome and wine recommendations are delivered by the other partner, the consummately professional Philippe L'Hôpital.