From his traditional Moselle fried fish to his perfectly pearly cod swaddled in Colonnata bacon - with a delicious side combination of peas and rhubarb and, more surprisingly, pork gravy - Lucio Richiardi is a chef who rides the surf and turf wave like no one. The view of the Moselle is unobstructed from the tables lining the windows, while the terrace is a haven of tranquillity and greenery. A forty-year-old institution with a knack for keeping up with the times.