In an often troubled world, it is sometimes reassuring to sit back and enjoy dishes that have not been altered by the passage of time. Chef Daniel Rameau, who holds the record for longevity, starts off by delighting you with his infectious good humour. Then, his cooks get down to work to offer you their greatest classics, such as the fricassee of European lobster in a morel sauce, scrumptiously rich and slightly creamy, or the roast guinea fowl from Loué, crowned with a beautiful Périgourdine sauce.