With a V as in Valter Paduano, the chef has carried off the challenge of creating a trattoria in the Mosel region that is a magnet for all the country’s top Italian chefs, who flock here to rediscover a taste of their childhood. But you don’t have to be Italian to follow in their footsteps, just get off the beaten track to sample his famous Margherita DOC pizza, his linguine al coccio cooked over a wood fire or his fabulous parmigiana di melanzane al forno.