Renato Favaro is still the emblematic chef, but his loyal team are very much hands on when it comes to executing the menu. To get the ball rolling, we hesitated between a classic vitello tonnato or courgette flowers stuffed with ricotta. We continued with some fettucine al ragu made with pure beef, but in small portions to save a little room for the rest. And the rest was a veal saltimbocca so tender as to fall off the fork. We had no real room for dessert yet failed to resist a genuine espresso tiramisu. E basta!