The premises may have been given a handsome contemporary refurbishment, but the classic dishes prepared by the chef, Arnaud Magnier, are what make you come back time and again. The menu is divided into three courses, with a choice each time. Take your pick between the tartare of freshly caught sea bass with bracing rhubarb and calamansi, or the melt-in-the-mouth remoulade of veal fillet, seasoned with soy and avocado. The turbot is cooked to pearly perfection and is an excellent match for the lusciously creamy bean risotto, while the nice duckling accompanied by crispy foie gras and a great little chanterelle raviole is a dish to be relished. The indulgent rich chocolate cake and rice pudding ice cream rivals with the classic Grand-Marnier soufflé with orange madeleines. The encyclopaedic wine menu is a national treasure in its own right.