For 75 years, this Italian institution in the city centre has been welcoming customers to its smartly dressed tables, closely spaced to create a lively atmosphere worthy of an urban trattoria. The Neapolitan meatballs are moist, generous and flavourful, with a cloud of melted Parmigiano cheese that delights the taste buds. The seven-hour lamb is succulently scrumptious, with its Montepulciano reduction giving it a beautiful length.