Leonardo De Paoli has readjusted his sights. From a trattoria serving generous portions, there has been a clear switch to a gastronomic cuisine in the tradition of Mosconi and Fani. Crunch your way through an array of appetisers that make the taste buds dance before making the difficult choice between a variety of novel dishes and delicious pasta, such as tagliolini with peas, tomato breadcrumbs and a powerful mortadella mousse. Don't miss the perfect ravioli with runny egg yolk mixed with parmesan, green asparagus and morel mushrooms – you won't want to leave a drop. Everything else is equally tempting, right down to the rhubarb dessert and olive oil petits fours. The service, orchestrated by the maître d'hôtel and his two assistants, is discreet but attentive. One more point and Oio dons its third toque.