The Opera is now in tune and at the right tempo under the aegis of its owner, Etienne-Jean Labarrère-Claverie. The dishes are sincere and often without embellishment, but when they are added, they are always the missing piece of the puzzle, as with this homemade foie gras elegantly served with preparations of sour cherries. The simplicity of the 'feel-good' dish of whole fish cooked in wild fennel stems, and the young carrots glazed with orange, also had the wow-factor. A meal that left a positive impression all round deserves to be marked up.
