Chef Etienne-Jean brings the concept of the Parisian brasserie up to date to great effect. He masters all its codes, from the deliciously mustardy mayo egg to the freshly spiced artichoke vinaigrette, not forgetting the generous marrow bone, the succulent Poitou shallot tatin or the kidneys with grain mustard or some veal blanquette. In summer, a pleasant terrace in a guinguette spirit is all you could ask for.