With the recent arrival of chef Fabrice Salvador, a change of direction was to be expected. This took us off to the North Sea with a delicate “crudo” of pink sea bream, served at just the right temperature and set off by a blood orange vinaigrette for a balanced combination. The exquisite pan-fried foie gras that followed also contrasted majestically with the crunchiness of a few peanuts caramelised with Sambal chili pepper. We look forward to tasting his cuisine in 2026 to see where he takes us from here.