A visit to one of the country's oldest bistros in the middle of the rural north paves the way for a pleasant surprise. The grill, open to the room, offers the spectacle of a fine piece of local Aubrac beef maturing and browning, a real treat. The spare-ribs are melt-in-the-mouth and the local cheese croquettes are succulent. And since everything, or almost everything, is regional, a hearty house gin opens the ball in a warm country atmosphere.